The last weekend of May feels a long way off in October. By late April it sneaks up fast, and the cottagers who get on the water first are the ones who sorted their commissioning list in March rather than the week before the long weekend. Here is what actually needs to happen before the boat goes back in.

Start with the engine

If you had the engine properly winterized in the fall, spring recommissioning is straightforward. If it was not properly winterized, the first conversation is with a marine mechanic before anything else.

Outboard recommissioning

  • Fresh fuel: Drain any stabilized fuel from last fall and add fresh mid-grade. Ethanol-blend fuel (E10) starts degrading within 30 days; seven-month-old stabilized fuel is not ideal for the first run of the season.
  • Flush the engine: Run the engine on fresh water with a flushing attachment for a few minutes before it goes in the lake. This lets you check for leaks, unusual noise, and overheating before you are on the water.
  • Check the impeller: The water pump impeller should be replaced every two to three seasons. If you do not know when it was last done, do it now. A failed impeller means no cooling water and a seized engine head.
  • Inspect the propeller: Look for dings, cracks, and bent blades. A damaged prop causes vibration and fuel inefficiency; a compromised hub can cause the prop to slip under load.
  • Reconnect and test the battery: If we stored your battery on a float charger over winter, it will be ready. If it was left in the boat, test it before committing to a launch day.

Inboard and sterndrive recommissioning

Inboards and sterndrives have more systems to check: coolant level and condition, belts and hoses for cracks, the bellows on sterndrives (a cracked bellows sinks boats), zincs on the lower unit, and the raw-water strainer. If you had full winterization including antifreeze circulation in the fall, confirm the system is fully flushed and recharged with fresh coolant before the first run.

Hull and exterior

  • Bottom inspection: Once the wrap is off, walk around the hull at eye level. Look for gel coat cracks, impact marks, and blistering below the waterline. Small cracks can be resealed with gel coat; blistering indicates osmotic damage and needs professional assessment.
  • Hardware check: Go over every cleat, grab rail, bow eye, and drain plug fitting. Anything that was loose or corroded in the fall will be worse in the spring. Tighten, replace, or reseal as needed.
  • Drain plug: Install the drain plug before launch. This gets laughed off as obvious advice until you meet someone who left it out.
  • Bilge pump: Test it before launch. A float switch that stuck over winter will leave you hand-bailing at the ramp.

Interior and soft goods

Open the boat up and let it air out before you inspect the interior. If the wrap was sealed properly, the interior should be dry. If there is condensation or mold smell, find the source before the boat goes in -- a persistent musty smell once the boat is in the water is very hard to eliminate.

  • Check all upholstery and carpet for mold, mouse damage, or moisture staining
  • Test all bilge blowers and ventilation fans
  • Reinstall any electronics that were stored separately
  • Test VHF, GPS, fish finder, and running lights
  • Check all safety equipment: PFDs, fire extinguisher (charged and in date), flares, throw rope

The sea trial

The first run of the season is not a social occasion. Run at low speed close to a dock or ramp for the first ten minutes and watch for anything unusual: water in the bilge, engine temperature climbing, vibration, steering resistance, or any warning lights. A problem found at idle speed close to home is a minor inconvenience. The same problem found at 40 knots in the middle of Lake Muskoka is a different situation entirely.

If you stored with us

We handle wrap removal and battery reinstall as part of the spring return process. Commissioning services (engine recommission, impeller check, propeller inspection) can be added to your spring booking and coordinated before your return date. Detailing before delivery is available through Muskoka Detail. Book early -- May is our busiest period for spring returns and commissioning requests.